The Walk - Stage 4 - Grasmere to Patterdale

After a lovely time of ‘rest’ in Grasmere, we embark on the second half of this stage. 

"Lord, you have been our dwelling place in all generations. Before the mountains were brought forth, or ever you had formed the earth and the world, from everlasting to everlasting you are God." 

Psalm 90:1-2

We wake to the birds singing  outside our window again this morning, pack up all our belongings to leave here for the Sherpa to pick up and head to breakfast. 

It’s porridge, tea and toast for me this morning. 

Jo Anne had croissants, egg, bacon, potato cake and hot cocoa. 

We had the hotel pack us a lunch for the trail. 

Looking out the window at breakfast, we see the clouds over the top of the fells, not a good sign.

Before I forget again, I have to mention the red squirrels. Apparently they are officially classed as “near threatened” and the cause is the introduction of the grey squirrel from America as an ornamental species. We see these signs everywhere.  

Apparently people get really excited when they see one. Well, we not only saw one but I was also able to snap a quick photo. He was running pretty fast so it’s a bit blurry.

Our task today is to walk from Grasmere, beside the mountain lake called Grisedale Tarn and into Patterdale, the little hamlet in the green and beautiful Ullswater Valley. There we will stay at Glenridding Hotel.

It sounds so simple – but this is a challenging walk. Key word for today: rocks! We are about to walk up a 2000’ mountain across huge boulders, in one grand finale as we leave the heart of the Lake District. 

The clouds are hanging low as we step out of our cozy lodge in Grasmere to begin today’s trek, and it looks like the heavens will open at any minute and cover us with a flood of water.

I was sad to leave Grasmere:  its lovely mountains, lakes, spicy-sweet gingerbread, cute dogs, friendly and helpful people, colorful flowers, stone shops and cottages. I loved how everything there felt old – even ancient – as well as slow, relaxed, yet fresh, and sweet. 

By now, Jo Anne and I are in the habit of saying a prayer at the beginning of each day. It puts us on the same page, gives us confidence, and helps us to bond even more as sister hikers. I am confident it is the reason our trip is so awesome. We thank the Creator for this incredible opportunity, for getting to see this beautiful part of the world, and petition Him for safety, health enough to hold out, and blessings along the way- and always prayers for our family at home. 

 

We walk past big farms on the way out of Grasmere. The clouds look threatening.

Putting something in the post.

We crossed the busy A591 to head up The Tongue. As you can see the path changes quickly. 

Much of it was under water. 

And as always the tick bearing ferns. We do a tick check every night. 

In other words, stay on the trail!

The view looking back is pretty nice too.

We have a high mountain to cross today so we take a deep breath and get on with it.

These dark gray sheep are the Herdwick breed, native to the Lake District in northwest England. The name Herdwick comes from the Old Norse  herdvyck meaning sheep pasture. Since I bought some herdy wool roving to do some needle punch, I asked this little guy if he provided the wool for me. 

Jo Anne coming up the trail. 

We started the walk waaaay back down in that valley. I tried to make sure that I didn't get too far ahead of Jo Anne and lose sight of her, but at one point I did. So, I sat down and waited for her to catch up, and waited, and waited. Apparently, she got off-trail and ended up walking in waist-high grass. She was yelling for me but I could only hear voices that sounded like they were coming from the other side of the mountain. About the time I decided to head back down and look for her, she popped up behind me. We were both greatly relieved to see each other. 

We will shortly pass over that ridge (the notch to the right). Well not too shortly. 

Rocks, rocks and more rocks. 

I really don’t like these stone steps that are angled down especially when they are wet and boots are wet. 

Yep, more rocks. 

I think you can zoom in and see the trail to the left of the river.

Throughout much of the ascent today, there is an incredible view to Crinkle Crags and the Langdale Pikes, Wetherlam and the Old Man of Coniston. 

Gradually the path approaches the waterfalls near the head of the gill and comes to a rock step. This is quite exhilarating stuff. 

Did I mention rocks. This is bouldering, not walking. 

Did I mention bouldering?

You’ll have to zoom in to see me standing at the top of the mountain. Elevation 1950’. 

And there is Jo Anne at the top with Grisedale Tarn in the background. A tarn is a small mountain lake formed in a glacier circque. 

Trail around the tarn. 

Lunch today is another tuna mayo sandwich. There aren’t many choices if you don’t want just cheese. 

Our lunch spot. The water trickles gently down beside us. Oh what peace. Very hard to describe.

At Grisedale Hause, our high point for today, a vastly different perspective opens up. It is now time to look forward across the great bowl that houses Grisedale Tarn to what lies ahead. We start to leave behind the great rugged heights of central Lakeland and head for the traverse of limestone country, and the dales of Yorkshire. 

Grisdale Tarn is an ideal place for a pause. This part fascinates me, especially when the bowl-shaped area opens up below the fell sides of Dollywaggon Pike, Fairfield and Seat Sandal. 

I get really excited about color in such beautiful places (can't you tell?) and take many pictures which was hard to narrow down to the ones I’ve chosen for the blog.  

"'For the mountains may depart and the hills be removed, but my steadfast love shall not depart from you, and my covenant of peace shall not be removed.' says the Lord, who has compassion on you." Isaiah 54:10

From Grisedale Hause, the descent is quite rocky. After a few minutes, we deviate just a bit because I want to see The Parting Stone, a lump of rock set back from the path. Most people don’t know it’s there and walk on by, but this is a very special stone. One of Wordsworth’s poems is carved into a rock tablet (all but illegible now), and commemorates the parting from his brother John in September 1800. John Wordsworth was captain of the Earl of Abergavenny, a ship of the East India Company, which sank off Portland in 1805, taking more than 200 lives, including his own. The Wordsworth family were very close, and the occasion of the poem was not the last time they were to meet. But, the tragedy that cost John his life was something that haunted William Wordsworth for many years. 

This crazy guy was pushing a bicycle up the mountain. 

I love how the light plays out, one minute Place Fell is lit up and the next, it is dark and moody. Brooding.

Looking backwards, I also like how the light makes a unique shape formed by shadow and trickery, it isn’t natural. All the fun of the fells. Endlessly fascinating! 

I believe this barn is reputed to be an over-night stop for AW.

Scots Pine - short blue green leaves and orange/red bark

Peat

Our first views of Ullswater. 

Stepping stones across the river. 

And again in the ferns 

The world is green and beautiful as we are coming into the valley. I am eager to see Patterdale because I had read it was Wainwright’s favorite valley. As we walk down from the mountain, I can see why it was his favorite.

Patterdale is sheltered between the wall of the Helvellyn range on one side and the steep Place Fell on the other, so we have no cell phone reception here. The only buildings we see in Patterdale are the police station, a school, and an old church.

Patterdale is said to be named after St Patrick, one of the missionaries believed by some to have travelled in this region on evangelical missions during the early years of the 5th century. The story goes that Patrick, born around the year 389, had the misfortune at the age of 16 to be captured by Irish pirates. He was taken to Ireland where he was obliged to work as a cattle herder. After six years of slavery, he experienced visions and heard angelic voices urging him to return to his own country to spread the word of Christ, a calling which on his escape he dutifully obeyed, travelling far into the Cumbrian mountains to convert the natives. Patterdale is known to have been an area of a well-established, if scattered, British settlement, and would have been an obvious target for his task. 

At the end of these walks there is usually a meal at a pub and the choices here are: The Patterdale Hotel and The White Lion, but we head onward to our home for the night in Glenridding. Today we are adding about 1 mile off-trail to get to the Glenridding Hotel, which means an extra mile to get back to the trail in the morning. More poor planning on the part of our tour company.

Beautiful flowers outside our hotel. 

I had the steak and ale pie again. 

Jo Anne had fish and chips again, which always comes with mushy peas. Sometimes they ask if you want mushy peas or something else. There aren’t many choices. 

And couldn’t resist posting a pic of the sink in the bathroom. You can have cold water or you can have hot water but nothing in between. I remember these faucets from long ago. 

The hotel is nestled in the iconic surroundings of the Lake District, overlooking the picturesque fell of Helvellyn, one fell we will NOT be climbing!

What a wonderful day it was for the Grasmere to Patterdale section of the C2C. With strong, vibrant colors, it was a day to fill the lungs and get some mountain air kind of day.

We have been blessed with the most wonderful weather everyday so far. Other than the slight drizzle and short rain in Grasmere, it has been absolutely incredible. 

We will turn in early because there is nothing much to do in Glenridding and we are exhausted from the day’s hike, but it is a “good tired.”

Stats for today

 27,586 steps

11.6 miles

89 floors

And tonight as we go to sleep:

“On the glorious splendor of your majesty, and on your wondrous works, I will meditate.”

 Psalm 145:5